How to: Contour and Highlight

Friday, 13 February 2015

Contouring and Highlighting has been in the spotlight a lot more over the past couple of years especially with Kim K and her fierce contour.

I personally love contouring and highlighting. I do it everyday and my face feels a bit flat without it, I just can't handle a face which is all one colour it doesn't look right!

My friend Fran came over to mine the other week and I showed her the ways of contouring and highlighting. She is a tad more tanned than me though so my concealer didn't quite match! She therefore went out the following week to buy products that did match.

I sent her a how-to in email form but we thought it might be easier to do pictures to follow and product recommendations in a full on blog.

Below is how I personally contour and highlight. If it is a normal day I will skip the cream contour and just do powder, but the below is for a full on night out look.

Apologies for the number of selfies that are about to follow.

Here is a before and after. 
With no face makeup and then with my makeup complete

So you can see the difference contouring and highlighting makes!

Apologies that the lighting is a bit different it was night time!

So I started with no makeup on my face. Just my eye makeup.

Sometimes I do my eye makeup first if I am doing a smokey eye as it means if you get any eyeshadow fall out on your cheeks you can wipe it off with a makeup wipe and not wipe off your foundation.
Same if you want to clean up the edge and have more of a defined wing of eyeshadow.

I started with correcting my dark under eyes....not that they look very dark in the above #nomakeup pic... but hey!

I use the Bobbi Brown Corrector in Bisque followed by the Concealer in Sand.

The corrector has a pinky undertone which cancels out the bluey purple under your eyes. If you think about it blue is opposite orangey red on the colour wheel so reddy tones cancel out bluey tones.

Then the concealer brings it back to your natural skin tone.

I just use my ring finger to press some of these cream products under my eyes. I only use a little.

The Bobbi Brown Concealer also comes with a Pale Yellow setting powder for your concealer but I didn't use that on this occasion.

It is really good though and is a good thing to get if you don't want to get a whole contour/highlight palette.

Next time for foundation
I used the L'Oreal Infalliable 24H foundation.

In the colour Golden Beige 

Actually since this makeup look I have found a new L'Oreal foundation in a new colour and I prefer it but I will do a separate blog on that...

To do my foundation I put one pump onto a flat surface. I use the lid of my Soleil Tan De it makes me feel fancy! 

You can see I use it everyday because it is grubby!

If you use something flat you waste less foundation than you would if you put it on the back of your hand as some product will absorb into your hand. Plus if you forget to wash your hands after you can end up with a foundation smear on your outfit!

So here is my face with the corrector, concealer and foundation...

Time for cream contouring and highlighting...

I use the NARS Creamy Concealer in Custard and the Maybelline FIT me conclear in 30.

The Maybelline Concealer is just a concealer for someone who is a lot darker than me!
And the NARS one is a yellowy tone to brighten.

Since doing this makeup look I have found a dupe for the NARS concealer so I will blog about that soon - there are quite a few good concealers from the drugstore though including the FIT me concealers and the Rimmel Wake Me Up concealer. So you don't need to spend the big bucks on NARS.

I always start with the highlight as I want to use the lightest colour on my sponge first. If you use the darker colour you might end up spreading it into the highlighted areas when you blend them.

Here are the areas where I highlight...

Sorry you can't see that well, but my NARS concealer was running very low! Hence I found a dupe!

You basically do it:
Middle of the forehead
Down the centre of your nose
Under your eyes in a triangle shape
On the top of your lip
In the middle of your chin

Think of your highlight as all the spots you want to bring forward. So if you want your forehead to look smaller you put light in the middle and dark round the edge.

If you want your nose to be thinner or straighter you put highlight down the centre in a straight line and make the sides of your nose darker

If you want your lips to look fuller you put highlight on the cupids bow and then contour under your bottom lip.

Blend all this out with a beauty blender, brush or even just your fingers - just make sure they are clean, we don't want spots from bacteria on your fingers!

Time to contour - the fun bit!

This concealer is really creamy and easy to blend. The only problem is they don't have a great shade selection at most Boots and Superdrugs. They have 6 shades but most shops seem to only stock 3.
This colour 30 is the darkest.

I put it around the edge of my forehead, as my forehead is pretty large and I like to make it look as small as I can!
Plus under my cheekbones, under my jaw, under my bottom lip and down each side of my nose.

When starting off I would apply one section at a time and blend or it might start drying if you aren't quick enough and then its harder to blend!

It find the section under your cheekbones just feel your face. You can feel where the bone is, contour just beneath it. Or you can do the sucky in fish face but I think just feeling it is the best way.

Blend all of this blending outwards. Make sure to go into your hair line not just stop right at the edge or you will have a line and it will be obvious!

With your cheekbones blend towards your ear and up rather than towards your mouth and down towards your jaw.

For your jaw blend it down into your neck this helps your jaw look sharper.

For the nose I use my fingers to blend it down the sides of my nose then just go over it with my beauty blender to smooth it out.

Here it is all blended. 

As you can see cream contouring is quite subtle. You don't want to look like you have a stripey face. Even though you are wearing a lot of makeup you don't want it to look like you are!

You could stop here...but as its a night out I go for cream and powder. Day to day though I would recommend just doing one. I prefer powder so do that but whichever you prefer.

Here is my Anastasia contour kit.

So to set my concealer under my eyes I use the middle yellow shade. Alternatively you could use the Bobbi Brown pale yellow powder. I am yet to find a drugstore yellow powder, but you could just use a regular powder. Rimmel Stay Matte is good.

Either way it is important to use a powder and I recommend putting it on straight after you have done your concealer you don't want it to crease at all.

I use the bottom lightest shade to set the concealer down my nose, forehead and chin.

To contour I use the middle brown shade which is the most cool shade. To contour you want to use a matte bronzer not one with shimmer!

It should look like a shadow rather than like a streak of reddy bronze tan.

If you don't have the contour kit I would recommend Hoola by Benefit or Sculpt by Mac.
Any bronzer which isn't too red and is matte.

To apply I use a small clinique powder brush.
I do have the MAC contour brush but actually a fluffy brush makes it easier to blend I think.

Then I push my mouth over to one side...which looks a bit odd... and apply under my cheek bone. Kind of like we are setting the cream contour we already applied.

As I said, blend this back and up rather than down and towards your mouth...and blend it well! You don't want streaks of brown.

Don't blend this down to your jaw either. The patch of skin just before your jaw should just be foundation coloured...if that makes sense.

Next I use the bottom bronzer and the middle one (so all but the reddest of browns) to go round the edge of my forehead and under my jaw. Basically wherever we cream contoured. But I don't on my nose as it can look a little muddy!

Finally for a bit of shimmery highlight I use the top light colour which has a bit of shimmer in it on my cheekbones and down the centre of my nose. It isn't the best shimmery highlight though so often I add on another. My holy grail one is the Estee Lauder Heatwave which was limited edition but apparently they are bringing it back!

And you're done!

I hope that was helpful. I tried to fit in as much info as I could!

Tag me in your pics if you try out my way of doing things!
@evhaworthx on instagram
@evhaworth on twitter

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